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Note on the generation of long gravity waves by breaking and shoaling of short-wave groups in gently-sloping beaches: the long-wave similarity parameter

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DOI:

https://doi.org/10.31224/osf.io/j25pa

Keywords:

infragravity waves, long gravity waves, surf beat similarity, Ursell number

Abstract

It is proposed a long-wave similarity parameter based on the surf-beat similarity and Ursell parameters. By including the Ursell number, the long-wave similarity allows distinguishing between breaking and shoaling generation of long-waves for conditions rendering similar values of surf-beat similarity. The proposed parameter is tested with three cases of wave conditions published in the literature, with promising results.

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Posted

2018-05-11 — Updated on 2018-05-11

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